Dog doesn't like new puppy.

[GizmoAndLola]

I have a 3 year old male French Bulldog and a few days ago I got a new female Frenchie puppy. Gizmo absolutely hates her lol. He avoids her at all costs and refuses to go anywhere near me if she's around. She is very playful and always chasing him around and wanting to play with him. I can tell that this really annoys him and he's constantly running away from her lol. Is there anything I can do make this situation a little better? I would like him to at least tolerate her.

 

[anns4boys]

I just went through this last month when we added a new puppy to our household. I have an 8 year old maliltpoo and a 1 year old frenchie and we rescued a 7 month old frenchie. The first few days were very rough, both of the other dogs wanted nothing to do with this new, always wanting to play puppy. they would growl and bark and my 1 year old was very upset. Based on advise I received here, we tried the slow introduction method and it really worked. For about a week, we pretty much kept them separated. we gave the other dogs a chance to know he was there, but not have to deal with him directly. We would have short, fully supervised sessions where we let him with the other dogs - but very short sessions and we kept him on a leash so we could control where he went and make sure he did not jump on the other dogs. After about a week, we made the sessions longer. It didn't take long before the other two dogs started to accept him a little better. It's been a month now and although the 8 year old is still not thrilled, they learned their boundries with each other. The 1 year old has totally embraced him and although she will "boss him around" when he needs it, they are becoming good buddies and playmates. It's fun to watch. Give it time, Frenchies love to play - especially with other Frenchies and once he gets used to the puppy, he will realize she is lots of fun!

 

[Squishy Walnuts]

Great advice! My dogs got along right away so I don't have any personal experience. Definitely take it slow and I'm sure Gizmo will enjoy playing with his new sister in no time. Pics of the new puppy?

 

[GizmoAndLola]

I just went through this last month when we added a new puppy to our household. I have an 8 year old maliltpoo and a 1 year old frenchie and we rescued a 7 month old frenchie. The first few days were very rough, both of the other dogs wanted nothing to do with this new, always wanting to play puppy. they would growl and bark and my 1 year old was very upset. Based on advise I received here, we tried the slow introduction method and it really worked. For about a week, we pretty much kept them separated. we gave the other dogs a chance to know he was there, but not have to deal with him directly. We would have short, fully supervised sessions where we let him with the other dogs - but very short sessions and we kept him on a leash so we could control where he went and make sure he did not jump on the other dogs. After about a week, we made the sessions longer. It didn't take long before the other two dogs started to accept him a little better. It's been a month now and although the 8 year old is still not thrilled, they learned their boundries with each other. The 1 year old has totally embraced him and although she will "boss him around" when he needs it, they are becoming good buddies and playmates. It's fun to watch. Give it time, Frenchies love to play - especially with other Frenchies and once he gets used to the puppy, he will realize she is lots of fun!

Thank you so much. Gizmo is usually very playful and loves to interact with other dogs so I was a little disappointed with his reaction. I guess he just doesn't like to share his mum lol. I will definitely try the slow introduction method and see how it goes.

 

[GizmoAndLola]

Great advice! My dogs got along right away so I don't have any personal experience. Definitely take it slow and I'm sure Gizmo will enjoy playing with his new sister in no time. Pics of the new puppy?

Here's one for now. I will try to upload more later.

 

[Tgirl]

I think I squealed out loud when I saw that picture. TOOOO cute!!

 

[anns4boys]

Thank you so much. Gizmo is usually very playful and loves to interact with other dogs so I was a little disappointed with his reaction. I guess he just doesn't like to share his mum lol. I will definitely try the slow introduction method and see how it goes.

Yes, I know what you mean. I was so excited for Tallulah, thinking she's be thrilled to have a playmate and she was NOT happy. But as I said, by the end of the first full week, we had major progress and now after a month, you would never know there was an issue. They really are very cute together.

The biggest problem we had at first was Tallulah being very possessive over her toys and food. If he went anywhere near a toy - she wanted it and a "spat" would happen. As she got used to him, that stopped and they learned to share the toys. We feed all three dogs separately though because food is an issue and this way I am sure that they are each eating what they should - no more or no less. It's funny, they each know their feeding spot and understand that is their spot and not the other dogs.


Here they are after just 2 weeks. Munson using T's bum as a pillow, lol

You're puppy is sooo cute! Enjoy her

 

[GizmoAndLola]

Yes, I know what you mean. I was so excited for Tallulah, thinking she's be thrilled to have a playmate and she was NOT happy. But as I said, by the end of the first full week, we had major progress and now after a month, you would never know there was an issue. They really are very cute together.

The biggest problem we had at first was Tallulah being very possessive over her toys and food. If he went anywhere near a toy - she wanted it and a "spat" would happen. As she got used to him, that stopped and they learned to share the toys. We feed all three dogs separately though because food is an issue and this way I am sure that they are each eating what they should - no more or no less. It's funny, they each know their feeding spot and understand that is their spot and not the other dogs.

View attachment 6288
Here they are after just 2 weeks. Munson using T's bum as a pillow, lol

You're puppy is sooo cute! Enjoy her

Yeah, we have that problem too. Gizmo hates sharing anything and if she has a toy he growls at her and then takes it away, even if he doesn't actually want the toy. I kind of knew this was going to happen though, he has always been like that with other dogs. I'm hoping he will get better though.

We also feed them separately, Gizmo is very possessive of his food.

Once again, thank you so much for the reply.

And omg, your dogs are adorable. ��

 

[2bullymama]

Ann - gave you great advice! Give them time.....

 

[Squishy Walnuts]

OMG! She's adorable!!

One thing I did do is introduce Wally to my other dog Uma on neutral territory, meaning not at home. I picked Wally up and called my husband to meet me at a school yard with Uma so she could meet him there for the first time. After they sniffed for a while we brought them both home, and when I fed Uma her dinner the first thing she did was drop a few kibbles on the floor for Wally before she started to eat. Although I'm not sure if it was how they were introduced or if it's just Uma's personality. A bit of both maybe?

 

[GizmoAndLola]

Ann - gave you great advice! Give them time.....

Yes, she does And I definitely will give them some time, I'm just a little paranoid so I thought I'd post on here and fortunately I received some great advice.

 

[GizmoAndLola]

OMG! She's adorable!!

One thing I did do is introduce Wally to my other dog Uma on neutral territory, meaning not at home. I picked Wally up and called my husband to meet me at a school yard with Uma so she could meet him there for the first time. After they sniffed for a while we brought them both home, and when I fed Uma her dinner the first thing she did was drop a few kibbles on the floor for Wally before she started to eat. Although I'm not sure if it was how they were introduced or if it's just Uma's personality. A bit of both maybe?

That's awesome. Could have just been her personality but I'm sure the way you introduced them to each other definitely helped. Thank you for the reply

 

[blushy]

Sounds like my 2 at first.

Just give them time. Keep reintroducing them over and over like Ann said above. They'll be lunatics and wrestling in no time!

Mine currently...

 

[GizmoAndLola]

Sounds like my 2 at first.

Just give them time. Keep reintroducing them over and over like Ann said above. They'll be lunatics and wrestling in no time!

Mine currently...

Thank you
Your babies are so cute

 

[Fosta Mama]

Here is an example of how to do slow introductions :

FBRN Slow Intro Policy

This policy is to be followed by all FBRN foster homes and adoptive homes.
Issues often develop when you provide a new dog with "too much too soon." This can create
many behavior problems that can take months of counterconditioning to undo. So, it is very
worthwhile to spend a little bit of time setting the ground rules at the outset. In the long run, it
will be better for you, the new dog and your pack.

Take everything SLOW when bringing a new dog into to your home. It is easier to take it
slow, than to bring a new dog into your pack and deal with the problems that arise from not
implementing slow introductions. Your pack may be one dog or several dogs. The more
dogs in your pack, the longer the process takes. This process is also required for homes
with no dogs in residence, but who have other pets, especially cats.

Be prepared. Designate a quiet room for the new dog. You will need a crate, baby gate,
blanket and leash.

Week 1
Even with dogs that are supposedly good with other dogs, start the first week with the new
dog in a separate room and having no direct interaction with your dogs. If you do not have
the ability to separate in a separate room, put up a baby gate with a blanket draped over it
so the dogs cannot see each other. Your dogs will know that there is a dog in that room, and
the new dog will know your dogs are there. This gives the new dog time to relax and
acclimate by taking in the new smells and sounds. The new dog will be less stimulated and
typically less reactive in the long run when given the time to be introduced to the new pack
by sound and scent first, and later by sight. This will also help the new dog understand that
the other animals in your home are valuable members of your pack and important to you.
Please ensure the dogs are also separated during potty breaks.

Week 2
Put up a baby gate to separate the new dog from your dogs. Drape a blanket over half of it.
Your dogs can take turns looking and smelling, and it gives the new dog the ability to hide
and be non-confrontational. If the new dog is nasty at the baby gate, stand there with a
short leash and be ready to correct him. Try this again and again until there is no reaction at
the baby gate. PATIENCE. Remove the blanket so the entire baby gate is visible to
everyone. See how that goes.

Once all dogs are able to be calm through the gate, you may start introductions. A walk on
neutral territory is the best way to introduce new dogs. Begin with the new dog and your
least reactive dog. You should have a second person, if possible, to assist with this. Each
person will control the leash of one dog. Begin a good distance from each other; slowly and
calmly bring the dogs closer as you progress. Parallel leash walking on neutral territory with
two handlers is a great way to introduce dogs. Neutral territory means an area where neither
dog has been or where neither dog resides. If both dogs are relaxed, allow them to greet
each other. Avoid face-face, head-on introductions between dogs. Instead, walk parallel to
each other, a few feet apart and alternate which dog is ahead of the other. Also, do not allow
a dog to greet another dog if he is dragging you towards the other dog or is misbehaving in
any way (pulling, jumping or lunging). Doing so will result in training the dog to misbehave to
gain access to other dogs!! If there is any tension, keep moving. It may take several walks
before the dogs are ready to interact. If the new dog is reactive to large dogs, introduce him
to a small dog first or vice versa. Only add ONE dog to the mix at a time. IF there is going to
be a fight, it is much easier to separate two dogs than numerous dogs.

This phase may take weeks. PATIENCE. After four weeks of consistent corrections and
discipline for naughty behaviors, the new dog should be integrated with your pack. Some
dogs will move into your pack quicker and some slower. You need to base it on each dog’s
behaviors. Always err on the side of caution, and take things slow. No need to rush things!
ALWAYS ALWAYS, keep a short leash on the new dog and allow him to drag it around for
the first 4 weeks. Don't EVER feel bad and take the leash off; just as soon as you do, you
will have a dogfight and no handle to separate them. NEVER leave the new dog
unsupervised with your dogs. Crate or separate them while you can't supervise. If you have
already had a dogfight, NEVER leave the dogs together, not even for 10 minutes while you
are in the shower. This sounds like a lot of work, but if you are not there to watch and stop
the behavior before the fight, it can escalate to a dangerous situation before you can get
there to split it up.

Please allow the dog to acclimate to your home before introducing him to new people or
taking him out, with the exception of a trip to the vet. A trip to Petsmart or a large family
gathering will provide too much stimulation.

Experienced volunteers have developed this method over years of trial and error.
Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, you may still have the occasional fight. It
happens. But, by following these simple rules, they will be minimal.

When you have a leash on the dog and you see the "stink eye," REMOVE the dog from the
situation immediately. Take the dog by the leash, and put him in the bathroom for 30
seconds of silence. Any longer than 30 seconds and the dog will “forget” that it was
ostracized from the pack and the lesson will have no value. Ostracizing a dog from a pack is
a powerful tool. The key word is "silence," NO whining or scratching allowed. You can run
the leash under the door to allow you to correct the dog for whining or scratching. When you
let the dog out, be sure he has a better attitude and is paying attention to you. Repeat this
as many times as needed EVERY time you see him giving the stink eye, stalking or
displaying naughty behaviors. If a dog fight does happen, it is often necessary to go back to
step one for a few days. Sometimes, dogs not separated for a few hours/days after a fight
can escalate their behavior. Be consistent and strong.

 

[GizmoAndLola]

Here is an example of how to do slow introductions :

FBRN Slow Intro Policy

This policy is to be followed by all FBRN foster homes and adoptive homes.
Issues often develop when you provide a new dog with "too much too soon." This can create
many behavior problems that can take months of counterconditioning to undo. So, it is very
worthwhile to spend a little bit of time setting the ground rules at the outset. In the long run, it
will be better for you, the new dog and your pack.

Take everything SLOW when bringing a new dog into to your home. It is easier to take it
slow, than to bring a new dog into your pack and deal with the problems that arise from not
implementing slow introductions. Your pack may be one dog or several dogs. The more
dogs in your pack, the longer the process takes. This process is also required for homes
with no dogs in residence, but who have other pets, especially cats.

Be prepared. Designate a quiet room for the new dog. You will need a crate, baby gate,
blanket and leash.

Week 1
Even with dogs that are supposedly good with other dogs, start the first week with the new
dog in a separate room and having no direct interaction with your dogs. If you do not have
the ability to separate in a separate room, put up a baby gate with a blanket draped over it
so the dogs cannot see each other. Your dogs will know that there is a dog in that room, and
the new dog will know your dogs are there. This gives the new dog time to relax and
acclimate by taking in the new smells and sounds. The new dog will be less stimulated and
typically less reactive in the long run when given the time to be introduced to the new pack
by sound and scent first, and later by sight. This will also help the new dog understand that
the other animals in your home are valuable members of your pack and important to you.
Please ensure the dogs are also separated during potty breaks.

Week 2
Put up a baby gate to separate the new dog from your dogs. Drape a blanket over half of it.
Your dogs can take turns looking and smelling, and it gives the new dog the ability to hide
and be non-confrontational. If the new dog is nasty at the baby gate, stand there with a
short leash and be ready to correct him. Try this again and again until there is no reaction at
the baby gate. PATIENCE. Remove the blanket so the entire baby gate is visible to
everyone. See how that goes.

Once all dogs are able to be calm through the gate, you may start introductions. A walk on
neutral territory is the best way to introduce new dogs. Begin with the new dog and your
least reactive dog. You should have a second person, if possible, to assist with this. Each
person will control the leash of one dog. Begin a good distance from each other; slowly and
calmly bring the dogs closer as you progress. Parallel leash walking on neutral territory with
two handlers is a great way to introduce dogs. Neutral territory means an area where neither
dog has been or where neither dog resides. If both dogs are relaxed, allow them to greet
each other. Avoid face-face, head-on introductions between dogs. Instead, walk parallel to
each other, a few feet apart and alternate which dog is ahead of the other. Also, do not allow
a dog to greet another dog if he is dragging you towards the other dog or is misbehaving in
any way (pulling, jumping or lunging). Doing so will result in training the dog to misbehave to
gain access to other dogs!! If there is any tension, keep moving. It may take several walks
before the dogs are ready to interact. If the new dog is reactive to large dogs, introduce him
to a small dog first or vice versa. Only add ONE dog to the mix at a time. IF there is going to
be a fight, it is much easier to separate two dogs than numerous dogs.

This phase may take weeks. PATIENCE. After four weeks of consistent corrections and
discipline for naughty behaviors, the new dog should be integrated with your pack. Some
dogs will move into your pack quicker and some slower. You need to base it on each dog’s
behaviors. Always err on the side of caution, and take things slow. No need to rush things!
ALWAYS ALWAYS, keep a short leash on the new dog and allow him to drag it around for
the first 4 weeks. Don't EVER feel bad and take the leash off; just as soon as you do, you
will have a dogfight and no handle to separate them. NEVER leave the new dog
unsupervised with your dogs. Crate or separate them while you can't supervise. If you have
already had a dogfight, NEVER leave the dogs together, not even for 10 minutes while you
are in the shower. This sounds like a lot of work, but if you are not there to watch and stop
the behavior before the fight, it can escalate to a dangerous situation before you can get
there to split it up.

Please allow the dog to acclimate to your home before introducing him to new people or
taking him out, with the exception of a trip to the vet. A trip to Petsmart or a large family
gathering will provide too much stimulation.

Experienced volunteers have developed this method over years of trial and error.
Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, you may still have the occasional fight. It
happens. But, by following these simple rules, they will be minimal.

When you have a leash on the dog and you see the "stink eye," REMOVE the dog from the
situation immediately. Take the dog by the leash, and put him in the bathroom for 30
seconds of silence. Any longer than 30 seconds and the dog will “forget” that it was
ostracized from the pack and the lesson will have no value. Ostracizing a dog from a pack is
a powerful tool. The key word is "silence," NO whining or scratching allowed. You can run
the leash under the door to allow you to correct the dog for whining or scratching. When you
let the dog out, be sure he has a better attitude and is paying attention to you. Repeat this
as many times as needed EVERY time you see him giving the stink eye, stalking or
displaying naughty behaviors. If a dog fight does happen, it is often necessary to go back to
step one for a few days. Sometimes, dogs not separated for a few hours/days after a fight
can escalate their behavior. Be consistent and strong.

Thank you

 

[winginit66]

This was good reading as we are *thinking* about adding another. I definitely think neutral ground is the best, if not neutral at least outdoors in the yard and leashed. Ours are very good about eating. They all eat in the kitchen and know where their bowls are and they do seem to know it is 'their spot'.

 

[GizmoAndLola]

This was good reading as we are *thinking* about adding another. I definitely think neutral ground is the best, if not neutral at least outdoors in the yard and leashed. Ours are very good about eating. They all eat in the kitchen and know where their bowls are and they do seem to know it is 'their spot'.

The more the better. You simply cannot have just one.

 

[GizmoAndLola]

Thank you everybody for the advice. They are slowly starting to get along. They are actually playing together with my cousin's dog right now. They're not friends yet but they're definitely getting there.

 

[blushy]

The more the better. You simply cannot have just one.

I have 2, and I think I'm maxed out on patience. So I'll keep it at 2. I've never had more than one so these are my first French Bulldogs AND the first time of me owning more than one dog! Luckily they are small so it's like 2-for-1 deal on the size